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465 West 23rd Street, Suite 9B
New York, NY, 10011
United States

(917) 664-2294

JOURNAL

CAN I TELL YOU ... TAKE A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD WITH ME, MEET THE WOMEN THAT INSPIRE ME OR GET THE SCOOP ON NEW STYLES.

Filtering by Category: Europe

Can I Tell You About ... Aigues-Mortes

Rafe Totengco

STAY

Villa Mazarin is situated in the heart of the fortified city of Aigues-Mortes. The structure was built in the 15th century and furnished with Provencal antiques. There's a heated indoor pool and Jacuzzi that come in handy, perfect after a full day of walking and sightseeing.
 

EAT

The restaurant Le "S" is a quaint spot located on a narrow little street off of the main square. The proprietress was charming, self-deprecating and hilarious. She was a one-woman show! When we told her where we were from, she reminisced about her trip to New York and how much she enjoyed it. She offered three different types of prix fixe menus and everything we chose was delicious, truly authentic Camarguaise cuisine. For after dinner drinks we crawled across the street to Bar Le Tac Tac. It is the tiniest and most well stocked bar I have ever been to. Glasses and people were on top of each other, but it was wonderful. You have to see it to believe it!
 

DO

You must walk around the city walls and up the towers. From there you can see the pink salt marshes and the rooftops of the houses within this medieval city. You can almost imagine what it must have been like in the 13th century during Louis IX. The town's rectilinear streets have stayed intact and are considered one of the best examples of 13th century military architecture.
 

MUST SEE

The Parc Ornithologique in Pont de Gau is a vast bird sanctuary filled with their famous pink flamingoes. The trails are marked with hidden observation posts so you can witness the birds in their natural habitat and take photos without scaring them away.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Aigues-Mortes (meaning dead water) is a quaint medieval town with a fascinating history marked by the crusades and the Templar Knights. This medieval city sits on the flat marshes of the Petite Camargue and was a small hamlet for salt gatherers and fishermen. To the south of the town you can see the rose colored salt marshes where they produce beautiful salt, Aigues-Mortes' most famous export. I love that you can see everything in a day and visit other towns within the vicinity.

Can I Tell You about ... Arles, France

Rafe Totengco

STAY

We initially booked rooms at L'Oustau de Baumaniere, famed for its discreet location and chic interiors as well a Michelin-starred restaurant. But when we checked in, we were informed that we had been upgraded to stay instead at their sister property, La Cabro d'Or. Upon arriving at our new accommodations we immediately felt at home. The proprietors, Jean-Andre and Genevieve Charial, have turned a former 18th century stone farmhouse into an elegant and comfortable boutique hotel with sprawling lavender gardens, a swimming pool, tennis court and a lavish spa. Genevieve handles all the interiors while Jean-Andre runs the hotel and restaurants. Our suite was luxurious and inviting, complete with a living room filled with books and a balcony overlooking the garden.  
 

EAT

Prix-fixe menus are very popular in France and this is definitely true when it comes to Michelin-starred restaurants. A friend who was in Provence recently was raving about L'atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel so I made reservations. It was a wonderful long, leisurely lunch. Every dish was presented so creatively I couldn't help but take photos of every plate! Chef Rabanel is known for using fresh ingredients including flowers from his own garden and concocting them into complex, delicious combinations. 
 

MUST SEE

The Arles Amphitheatre goes back as early as 90 AD when it was built by the Romans, and is still in use today. Over the years it has been used as a theatre, fortress and even as housing for over 200 families. Today the arena is used for plays, concerts and bull fights during the summer months. Climbing to the top you are rewarded with sweeping views of Arles and you can almost imagine what it must have been like during Roman times.
 

SHOP

I always say, "I haven't met a print I didn't like", and at Souleiado I fell in love with every single one I saw. This company has a strong history and is known for prints that evoke Provencal motifs and color combinations. In fact, the name is Provencal for "sun shining through the clouds after the rain". The store even houses a photo of Pablo Picasso wearing one of their shirts. Despite my meager attempt at self-control, I walked out with enough printed shirts to make a quilt!
 

DO

Follow the Vincent Van Gogh Trail. He painted and drew over 300 images depicting his impressions of scenes and landscapes during his time in Arles. The trail has 21 stops, each marked with a reproduction of the art he painted there. These allow you to enjoy the vantage point of where the artist set up his easel. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

While walking along the narrow streets one afternoon we chanced upon Musee Reattu. The museum was a former Grand Priory of the Order of Malta and owns a sizable collection of 17th-19th century old masters as well as drawings and paintings donated by Picasso. Coincidentally, the museum was holding a costume exhibit curated by Christian Lacroix. The exhibition showcased Lacroix's work as a costume designer for the opera. I was enthralled to be able to view the garments up close and see the craftsmanship that went into each piece. The setting was like a costume party for  Scheherazade and was fabulously extravagant! Before leaving I stepped into the museum shop where they were selling limited edition lithographs of fashion illustrations by Christian Lacroix. Naturally, I had to have one!

Can I Tell You about ... Copenhagen, Denmark

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Hotel Axel Guldsmeden is located at the edge of the former red light district in Vesterbro. It's known for serving the best organic buffet breakfast in the city and for their own organic shampoo and cream products. The look of the hotel is eclectic; a fusion of Balinese teak furniture, ikat pillows and bed spreads with Persian rugs and original art on the walls.
 

EAT

Noma. Before you even book your flight, make sure you've secured a reservation at this Michelin two star restaurant. Getting a table was no easy feat but perseverance finally paid off! It was certainly worth all the trouble. The food was inventive, delicious and awe inspiring. The total experience was better than I had imagined. I walked out satiated and completely giddy! Believe the hype, it's true!
 

MUST SEE

The Statens Museum for Kunst / The Danish National Galleryhouses over 9,000 paintings and sculptures as well personal collections from past Danish kings. An art installation entitled "We the People" by Danish-Vietnamese artist Danh Vo was on exhibit. I also enjoyed viewing the fragmented full-scale replica of the Statue of Liberty. These pieces were scattered all over the world and some were placed in the Danish museum.
 

SHOP

Illums Bolighus. This is heaven on earth for any interior design aficionado. Their roster is a who's who in the world of Scandinavian design from Arne Jacobsen to Georg Jensen and Verner Panton. If you can't buy an actual chair don't fret because they sell miniature versions of these modern classics!
 

DO

Rent a bike. Copenhagen is famous for its biking culture and is has officially been deemed the first bike city in the world. The Danes are well known for their love of cycling and cities all around the world are now looking at ways to emulate this phenomenon. Last year, it was also voted the "Best City for Cyclists" and the "World's Most Livable City".
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The Danes believe that "only the best is good enough" and design is a way of life. This aesthetic consciousness permeates in everything from lighting, furniture, clothing to waste cans. Each store, gallery and restaurant has a restrained elegance in the way everything is presented. Nothing is superfluous and everything is carefully thought out and resolved.

Can I Tell You About ... San Sebastian, Spain

Rafe Totengco

STAY

Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra has the best views of Playa La Concha at any time of the day. Morning, noon and night you can sit at the cafe in front and watch people promenade along the bay. The rooms at the top floor each have a balcony where you can relax and watch the sunset before heading out to dinner. Every morning we woke up to the beautiful vista of the beach and the sea.
 

EAT

Dining at Arzak was a dream come true - but it wasn't easy to get a table. It took a few emails and connections to squeeze us into one of the world's best restaurants but it was so worth the trouble. Believe the hype, this family run restaurant is a must if you're in Donostia. Chef Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Chef Elena Arzak Espina have a culinary research lab on the premises where they have a comprehensive library of spices collected from all over the world and use them to experiment with new dishes. I was privileged enough to get an inside peek of the laboratory and the cavernous wine cellars that hold over 100,000 wine bottles. The cuisine honors traditional Basque cuisine but with a modern twist. They procure the best local ingredients and have some producers who sell exclusively to them. My favorite dishes were the Beet Root blood apple, apple injected with beetroot accompanied with creamy foie gras and potato “mother of pearl, the Ovo-lacto, egg with semi crunch shell with lactic leaves and curds and the grilled monkfish fillet with a crispy lobster roll and sea buckthorn. Each dish came with a glass of wine that complimented it. Needless to say it was an unforgettable feast.
 

MUST SEE

The Balenciaga Museum is a must if you're interested in seeing couture clothes from a bygone era. The trip to the town of Getaria is a pleasant drive along the coastline and if you leave in the morning you'll be back in Donostia by early afternoon. The museum is a modern statement built right next to Palacio Aldamar, a historic residence in the town. The foundation owns over 1,600 garments of which some are displayed through several floors according to themes and eras. A highlight worth noting were the digital animations showing the complexity of construction and patterns of some of the pieces on display. Through these micro-movies you could begin to understand and appreciate how his creative mind worked.
 

SHOP

Espadrilles are the footwear of choice for men, women and children all over Spain. Kokekoko is conveniently located a block away from the beach and is stocked with a rainbow of colors and patterns like a candy store. The prices are so reasonable it would be a crime to leave the store with just one pair.
 

DO

Pintxo Crawl is the equivalent to bar hopping. Start at Atari Gastroteka then move on to Bar Zeruko and A Fuego Negro as you work your way down the alley zig-zagging from one bar to another and end at La Cuchara de San Telmo . Each spot has a different specialty written on a chalkboard behind the bar. We tried a few items from every bar and took cues from what the locals were ordering. In case you're wondering how we made it to the end of the night without getting smashed: order the small beers called Zurita to make it through all the bars with your sobriety at least partially intact. We had an incredible evening, mingled with the locals, enjoyed little bites of decadence and lived to tell. The best dish we had was a plate of local mushrooms lightly fried in butter, with a raw egg cracked onto the plate, perfection!
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

I love nothing more than to meander when I'm on vacation and Donostia is the perfect city for that. Everything is walking distance, especially from the Hotel Londres. We started down the promenade along Playa la Concha all the way to El Peine del Viento to see Eduardo Chillida's sculptures then made our way through the quaint area of La Parte Vieja lined with pintxo bars and shops, hiked up Monte Urgull, checked out the excellent San Telmo Museum , had a long lunch at La Cuchara de San Telmo, and ended the day watching the sunset with an Aperol. That's my idea of a vacation.